Basics for Beginning a Garden

This blog post continues where How We Plan Our Homestead Gardens ends; digging deeper into some of the topics highlighted in that article and sharing some new information as well as helpful resources.  Let's dig in and begin!

Filling your Garden Beds: 
As I shared in How We Plan Our Homestead Gardens, on our homestead we practice a methodology called square foot gardening.   This methodology uses containers and therefore requires one to figure how to best fill those containers before planting seeds or seedlings. This can feel intimidating sometimes depending on how you feel about math.  Regardless of the size and depth of your garden beds these resources should be helpful in ascertaining the correct amount of container soil to add.  

• Container and Pot Sizes: How Much Soil Do I Need? https://harvesttotable.com/container-and-pot-sizes-how-much-soil-do-i-need/ 
• Soil Calculator: How Much Soil Do I Need?  https://www.gardeners.com/how-to/soil-calculator/7558.html 

Now that you have a sense of how much soil you will need using the resources linked above lets talk about what to use to build the soil in your garden beds. As you research soil blends you will find varied recipes for a “perfect soil”.  If you are aware of a soil blend recipe/formula that you or someone you know has used feel free to explore what works for you.   Below is the soil blend recipe we have used in our urban homestead raised beds for almost a decade.  In the glossary at the end of the post I elaborate on what each of these ingredients are for your reference.

• Recipe (per garden bed):
  • ⅓ Peat Moss
  • ​⅓ Coarse Vermiculite
  • ⅓ Compost
• ​Once a Year add the following (per garden bed):
  • 1 cup Lime
  • 1 cup Sea Kelp Meal
  • 1 cup Organic Fertilizer
  • 1 cup Azomite

Gardening Tools:
Along the journey of gardening one can definitely accumulate some tools over time.  Whether you are obtaining gardening tools new, using ones you already own and/or borrowing them from someone else please take some time to clean each tool thoroughly.  It's important to get into the habit of cleaning tools before and after using them in the garden; especially if they have been handling diseased plants.  Make sure to carefully inspect your tools as well, to notice any need for repair or maintenance, especially if there is rust.    
 

• Some basic tools you may want to procure to utilize while gardening:
  • Gloves
  • ​Knee pad(s)
  • Shovel
  • Pitch ​Fork
  • ​Potting Trowel
  • Soil Fork
  • Rake
  • ​Garden Hose or Watering Pitchers
  • Wheel Barrel
  • ​Garden Shears (small for plants and flowers / large for brambles, trees, shrubs and bushes)
  • Soil testing kit
  • ​Basket for gathering harvested crops, flowers and herbs

Zones:
As I wrote about in How We Plan Our Homestead Gardens it's important to establish a planting timeline whether you are planting from seed or obtaining seedlings.  Part of that process involves establishing what geographical grow zone you are in; this is typically based on your regional climate.  Below I have linked a website where you can enter your zip code and find out your grow zone.  

• What's your grow zone? https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/PHZMWeb/

Why is important to know what zone you're growing in?  Knowing your grow zone will help in knowing what plants, trees, shrubs, flowers, herbs etc are able to be grown in your climate.  This information can typically be garnered from your seed packets or online research.  Below I have linked a website that has a pretty comprehensive list of vegetables, flowers, fruits and plants and what what zones they grow best in.  Feel free to check it out for some guidance.  

• Growing Guidelines broken down by plants (zone) -- https://www.almanac.com/gardening/growing-guides​

Seeds:
Depending on what route(s) you are exploring you may be growing your gardens from store-bought seedlings and/or from your own homegrown seedlings that you start from seed.  Now that your garden beds are full, fed and you know what grow zone you live in, you can begin to make both a list, and timeline, of what you want to grow.

I highly recommend using seeds that are from local distributors; organic, heirloom and native varieties when possible.  You can also find local seed exchanges/shares. Over the years, I have grown my own selection of home cultivated seeds from both cultivated and wild plants on our homestead.  The times we do buy seeds I procure them from these two sources mainly: 

• Strictly Medicinal Seeds - based out of Oregon
• High Mowing Seeds - and a local distributor to my region in VT  
• BIPOC Seed Companies (PART 1)
  
• BIPOC Seed Companied (PART 2)
  

Feel free to share additional seed companies to check out in comments below!  

​If you are planting from seed some basic supplies you may need specifically for growing your seedlings are:

• Seedling cups or trays
• Seeds
• Seedling Starter Soil - a soil blend specifically formulated to support the germination of seeds and early growth of seedlings/plant starts.  

Some seeds can be directly sowed into your garden bed and some are best started as seedlings in an indoor grow space before transplanting into the garden bed.  You can go all-out and obtain indoor grow tents, shelving systems, lights, fans, warming mats etc.  And you can keep it simple and affordable and set up a table or two in a windowsill or well-lit space to grow seedlings.

When you are planting from seed it's important to read the seed packets completely and do some research on the specific species of plant you are growing to learn the best way to germinate that seed(s).  Again, some seeds are best grown by directly sowing them into the garden bed (ie. cucumbers, legumes, watermelon, radishes, leafy greens etc.).  Some seeds need to be soaked and/or scarified to germinate/sprout before planting (ie. passionflower/Maypop, okra etc.).  

After all seeds have been planted its important to know that you can save the remaining seeds in storage until the next grow cycle, which, depending on the plant, can be within the same grow season or in the next year.  Some examples of places you can store seeds are: in the seed packets themselves, in glass baby food jars or mini ziplock bags.  Make sure the bags/jars holding your seeds are sealed properly and stored in a cool, dark place.  

The germination timeframe varies from plant to plant; some can take as little as a week or two before peaking above the soil and some can take longer.  Be patient and remember that one of the biggest gifts growing food offers us is practice in being present, moving slowly and honoring the ebbs and flows, the rhythms of nature.  This is a deeply valuable practice and is essential to decolonizing our relationship to the land and to life itself.  So instead of trying to rush the process and make the experience of growing food fit into your expectations or into the capitalistic pace of our culture, let the experience of growing food change you, teach you, transform you and encourage you to question and redefine the pace at which you move through life.

Every seed equals one plant, so essentially one seed is needed to grow one plant.  Using a finger or tool specifically for sowing seeds, make a hole about an inch deep into the soil.  Place the seed into that hole the gently cover the seed with the soil.  If you are planting a seedling the hole made into the soil would likely be scooped/dug with the palm or a small shovel.  The seedling  and its soil would be removed from the seedling tray and gently placed into the hole then covered gently with the soil.  Taking the hands and tenderly yet firmly pressing the soil around the base of the seedling stem to ground it into the garden bed.  

It's a good practice to plant a few seeds, typically 3-4 per hole, to ensure there is more potential for the seed to make its way to a mature plant.  Seeds and seedlings are particularly vulnerable because they are small, their roots are still growing and not fully established meaning they are more easily uprooted or disturbed.  Additionally, in their young stages they are more delicate as well.  Below, this sacred seed prayer beautifully articulates why planting a few seeds is a good practice. 
 
"Plant four seeds
One for the worm
One for the crow
One to rot and
One to grow"

There are many things that can happen to a seed along its path to maturity. A seed may not germinate, a seedling may not be able to withstand disease, wild animals and bugs nibbling on them, the weather patterns or watering cycle can sometimes be too harsh on a seed.  "For a seed to achieve its greatest expression, it must come completely undone, the shell cracks, its insides come out, and everything changes.  For someone who doesn't understand growth it can look like destruction."  

Some seeds are best grown by sowing them into small seedling containers and then easing them into the garden via a process call hardening.  Hardening is essentially weaning an indoor seedling by slowly exposing the seedling to the outdoors for a few hours a day over the course of 3-5-7 days.  This practice gets the seedling accustomed to being exposed to the living outdoors in the sun, rain, breeze and amongst wild life.  Once that period of time has passed the seedlings are more prepared to withstand the transplant and transition from growing indoors to outdoors.    

Below are some examples of varying sizes of seed:
1) Basil Seeds (top left)
2) Cucumber Seeds (top right)
​3) Marigold Seeds (middle left)
4) Nasturtium Seeds (middle right)
​5) Pepper Seeds (bottom left)
6) Legumes Seeds (bottom right)

Seedlings:

Magically, the seeds have emerged from the earth to reveal themselves as seedlings; symbols of new life, life and hope.  Outlined below are some ways to tend to seedlings/starts as they are continuing to grow into mature plants.  

• Thinning:
  • ​​As I mentioned earlier, when planting seeds, one seed equals one plant, but its important to practice planting a few seeds per hole in the soil.  If all goes well and every seed or a few seeds germinate into seedlings it will be necessary to thin the seedlings.  Why?  If we do not thin the seedlings they will crowd themselves out and inhibit growth.  The goal is to have one seed for every one seedling per hole in the soil.  When thinning, typically the healthiest looking seedling is left in the soil to become established and grow to full maturity.  Because of the fragility of seedlings and roots its important to be as gentle and as precise as possible.  Many things can be done with thinned seedlings; they can be transplanted, composted or added to a salad.  

• Pruning:​ 
  • As the plants you've cultivated begin to grow stronger and taller its important to frequently observe the plants behavior for communication.  Are the leaves and stems droopy? Are there parts of the plants demonstrating disease or harm by showing mildew (a powdery coating on the leaves as seen in the image below on the left), dark spots, wholes and/or discoloring of the leaves.  Check the tops and bottoms of the leaves, notice the stems, flowers and fruits (ie. berries, tomatoes, legumes, squash etc.) to see if you notice rotting, soft spots, discoloration etc. 
  • Pruning is the process by which growers and land stewards "clean up" the plant by cutting off the parts of the plant that are communicating that they are experiencing struggle or harm.  Like any living organism, if a plant is hurt it will use focus its energy, time and resources to attempt to rebuild and heal.  Pruning allows the plant to direct its energy on whole growth.  
  • Making it a habit to regularly prune aid the whole health of your plants by affording the chance to notice early on if the plant is showing signs of being sick or infested, enabling you to respond quickly by pruning the parts of the plant that are sick off (do not compost these clippings from the plant).  Why?  Disease, mildew and infestation can live in your compost and on gardening tools, hence why its important to clean and care for your garden tools.  
  • In the image below (right) a plant is shown that is demonstrating disease, harm and/or struggle.  The part of the plant that is circled and marked with an X is the part of the plant that should be pruned by taking a scissors and cutting where the branch of the plant meets the central stem.  Unless it is diseased, the pruned part(s) of the plant can be composted.  Pruning enables the plant to focus its energy and potential on growing to its fullest expression versus repairing a part of the plant that has come to the end of its life cycle.

• Tipping:
  • ​Tipping is another form of pruning that is typically focused on herbs and some flowers.  Unlike the pruning image above that occurs from the bottom of the plant up; tipping occurs from the top of the plant down as is illustrated by the images below.  
  • Tipping is the process by which you cut or pinch the top 1/4 - 1/2 of the plant off after its achieved at least 4 - 5 inches in height, or if you see the plant beginning to bolt (as show in the bottom 2 images - second row).  Tipping is beneficial because wherever the plant is cut or pinched is where two more branches will emerge from the stems increasing the capacity to grow and overall fullness of the plant.    

I hope this blog post is supportive along your growing journey!
Blessings,
Candace  

​Glossary:
What is peat moss? Peat moss is a dead fibrous material that forms from mosses and other living materials decomposing in peat bogs. It’s used mainly as a soil amendment and has an acidic pH. It doesnt contain harmful microorganisms or weed seeds.

What is vermiculite? Vermiculite is a mineral that is used in gardening to aerate the soil and increases water and nutrient retention.  It wont deteriorate, rot, mold, its sterile and non-toxic. 

What is compost?  Nutrient rich organic matter that evolves from waste.

What is lime? Ground limestone rock that alkalizes the soil.
 
What is sea kelp meal? Helps the support soil structure, maintain moisture and its natural minerals and amino acids are like a super food for microorganisms in the soil.

What is fertilizer? Nutrients essential to plant growth.  (eg. chicken poop)

What is azomite?  Natural mineral that serves as a fertilizer, a soil amendment and can also help fight off pests.